Located at the northern end of Margaret River, Forester Estate captures the regional characters of this slightly warmer part of the region.
Kevin McKay is one of the quiet achievers of Margaret River.
At his Forester Estate winery, which he established in 2001, Mr McKay and his family have been turning out an outstanding range of wines that regularly win praise from show judges and wine scribes alike.
I recently tasted an extensive range of the current release wines and I don’t believe I have ever seen them better; from the value-for-money end under the Lifestyle label, through to the stunning premium-end wines, which come under the Yelverton label.
Forester Estate sits at the northern end of Margaret River on Wildwood Road and the intention from the start has been to make wines that capture the powerful regional characters of this slightly warmer part of the region.
And there is a lot of history in the place, not least in the name.
This region supported a thriving forestry industry in the 1850s with timbers shipped around the world from the nearby railway station.
In fact, even today many streets of London sit on the jarrah trees milled from the forests of Margaret River.
One of the pioneers of that bygone era was Henry John Yelverton, who ran the biggest timber mill in the colony.
Mr McKay has chosen to honour Yelverton’s memory in his super premium cabernets and chardonnay, which he releases only in the best years.
He takes these wines very seriously.
The cabernet, for instance, is blended after 20 months in French oak before getting a further three years in the cellar prior to release.
Inevitably, Mr McKay has added a Yelverton chardonnay to partner the cabernet.
The current release is the 2019, which should run out in the next few months.
And after 2020 and 2021, look out for the superb 2022, which will see the light of day later in the year.
It comes as no surprise that these wines are first rate.
Mr McKay is one of the region’s most experienced winemakers, having started the Abbey Vale vineyard on the family farm.
The thing I like about these wines is that Mr McKay always manages to introduce a little tweak to make them more interesting and more complex.
Take the sauvignon blanc, for instance. In this case, a little use of barrel fermentation has introduced a delightful complex nutty feel to the lively fragrant and super-fresh natural savvy character.
“[The intention is] not to get too big, but to focus my attention to detail and build complexity into my wines from the ground up,” Mr McKay said.
In the recent tasting, I saw for the first time a top-quality sparkling wine and a liqueur muscat, the latter having been in development for some time.
Both show the tremendous versatility and range depth of Forester.
However, this week I have featured three cracking good red wines, which really are the winery’s strong suit.
Forester Estate Home Block shiraz 2022 ($38)
This takes the Lifestyle shiraz up a notch or two. It introduces more savoury dark fruit characters, which take it through to another level in complexity and intrigue. There’s a gravelly and slightly ironstone character that complements the juicier red fruits, while a chalky tannin influence holds its line through to the finish.
Score: 93/100
Cellar: Eight years
Forester Estate cabernet sauvignon 2021 ($38)
It’s a slightly firmer and more angular cabernet than previously, which can be attributed to the vintage. Yet it retains all that is good in classy Margaret River cabernet. Delivers a generous and powerful statement of blackcurrant and leafy black olive with a dollop of dark chocolate. The tannins are quite chalky and bring a degree of control to create an effortlessly long finish.
Score: 93/100
Cellar: 10 years
Forester Estate Yelverton Reserve cabernet 2020 ($85)
A super-classy cabernet demonstrating the quality and distinctiveness of this variety in the northern parts of Margaret River. Blackcurrant and black olive with the faintest hint of mint and dark chocolate. The palate is seamlessly integrated to create an almost velvety cushion. A little bay leaf and oyster shell minerality add further. The oak integration is sleek and precise. A wine of the highest order.
Score: 97/100
Cellar: 20 years
- Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
