REVIEW: The long-time friends have got it just right with wine and chocolate in Wilyabrup and the Swan Valley.
Margaret River’s position on the world stage has largely been built on its wines, yet one of the great success stories of the region is not wine, but chocolate.
Anyone who has visited Margaret River in the past 20 years would be familiar with the crowds that gather at the Margaret River Chocolate Company, near the corner of Harmans Mill Road and Tom Cullity Drive in the heart of Wilyabrup.
It has become an indulgence mecca and one of the most popular tourist attractions in the region.
It has since grown to include another factory in the Swan Valley, as well as a concept store in Perth.
But there is another side to this successful business that was started by long-time chums, Martin Black and Patrick Coward in 1999.
And, hardly surprising given the location, this is about wines that are sold under the Coward & Black label.
The two winemakers share a bond that dates to childhood.
Growing up on the same street in Kewdale as children of British migrants, their shared heritage is reflected in the vineyard’s logo – the imagery of Great Britain and the Western Australian coast in the clouds, coupled with two men under umbrellas, symbolising their journey as ‘10-pound poms’, who dared to dream big.
In 1997, they bought a 108-acre property in Wilyabrup.
Initially intended as a holiday retreat, their passion for the land and its potential led them to plant their first cabernet sauvignon and shiraz in 2002.
Over the years, the vineyard expanded to include chardonnay, semillon and sauvignon blanc in Margaret River, and chenin blanc in the Swan Valley.
A case of choosing horses for courses.
Visitors to both sites in Margaret River and the Swan Valley can taste the range of artisanal chocolates and the wines, which, despite flying under the radar to some extent, have done well in local and international shows.
Just recently, and this is the reason I am writing this column, their Black Prince cabernet sauvignon 2020 won a trophy at the International Wine & Spirit Competition, which is no mean feat when you consider the quality and number of wines that are submitted.
The basis for this wine is the vineyard location in the dress circle of Wilyabrup.
The wines, including the Black Prince 2020, were made from the outset by Clive Otto when he moved from Vasse Felix to the newly established Fraser Gallop.
Since Mr Otto’s well-earned retirement, the wines are being made by Erin Tritt, working closely with viticulturist John Standish.
I have tasted the Coward & Black wines over the years and after a recent tasting I have to say they have never looked better.
The Black Prince 2020 may have won the international gong but the 2023, which is due for release later this year, is better, not surprising given the quality of that vintage.
The whites, too, are an impressive range, tuned more to the lighter and fragrant styles ideally suited to short-term drinking.
I suspect more focus might go into the chardonnay to produce another tier of wine.
The wines are available online or at the chocolate factories.
Coward & Black sauvignon blanc 2024 ($30)
Don’t expect one of those Kiwi fruit bombs. This is a savvy wine with a subdued, yet still intense flavour that makes it an interesting alternative to those very forward styles. Nectarine, light tropical nose with a hint of guava and a slight lemon zest to the finish combine to produce an excellent wine for immediate drinking. Love the textural feel here, which makes it ideal with a range of different foods.
Score 91/100
Cellar: 3 years
Coward & Black Fume Blanc 2023 ($30)
A fume style that does not overblow the use of oak. It’s still rather tight but with ageing it will emerge with layers of rich complexity. This was a stunning vintage, so within the walls of this wine there is plenty of firepower. There’s a nice minerality here, too, to carry the palate through to a long finish. A classy example of this style.
Score 94/100
Cellar: 10 Years
Coward & Black The Black Prince cabernet sauvignon 2020 ($70)
A wine that makes a statement about Margaret River cabernet. This was an early and very good vintage for red wines in Margaret River and it’s been captured perfectly here. The distinctive aroma of blackcurrant, bay leaf and black olive was augmented with a thread of oyster shell minerality. The 20 months in oak has been easily absorbed into the concentrated fruit. It’s balanced and poised, with an effortlessly long finish. Top-class stuff.
Score 95/100
Cellar: 12 years
• Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
