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designer food

IT seems like decades since a new beachside restaurant was established on our sunny shores … which in many ways is a good thing.

The last thing anyone wants is a beach awash with developments. The developments currently surfing our shoreline are not obtrusive. Most are rather understated buildings with fantastic views. We even seem to have become used to the eyesore that stands tall over Scarborough Beach.

So Tom Galopoulos, proprietor of the latest beachside restaurant in City Beach, Oceanus, knows he is a very lucky man. Seaside restaurants will, as a matter of course, attract punters due to the views they offer.

I couldn’t think of too many places with a more spectacular view than Oceanus. Overseas visitors especially will be in awe of such a location.

But Oceanus cannot afford to rely solely on the catch of visitors to Perth … it must impress local diners with innovative food and attentive, well-orchestrated service. Put these ingredients together with the view and you will always be up on the top of the ladder.

Tuesday night is traditionally

not the busiest night of the week in Perth, but we joined a reasonable crowd of diners at Oceanus at 8pm. There was good atmosphere despite the large space and relatively small number of diners, perhaps 20-30.

The diners ranged from business suits to a group having a celebration, and a number of

tables of couples.

We were shown to a table next to the window where a clear view of the well-lit City Beach is available. And while we didn’t ask for a window table when booking, it would be an idea if you are heading out with a ‘special client’ to seal a deal to ask for a window seat.

We ordered a bottle of wine and sat back to look over the menu, deciding to get the ball rolling with a tapas plate for starters while we considered the choices for main course.

However, plans for a moment of consideration were foiled when our young palm pilot-wielding waiter told us we needed to order our mains at the same time. Whether it was a bad night in the kitchen I don’t know, but we hurriedly rethought our strategy and selected some mains.

The tapas plate was a great introduction to the evening and included some delightful feta cheese, hummus, eggplant, a bowl of baby sardines and some Turkish bread. There was enough for the four of us to share.

As for the wine, there is an ample selection of WA and Australian wines, while Mr Galopoulos has sprinkled the list liberally with a selection of choices from his own Driftwood Estate. I thought that tactic was clever, without being blatant or limiting your choice.

With some delay, which I felt was too long, our main course meals arrived, and this is where the kitchen comes into its own. The meals were stunningly presented and certainly added to the experience of dining at Oceanus.

Each of us enjoyed all dishes served.

The chicken saltimbocca with warm potato salad, hard herbs and vincotta had plenty of flavour and the tender chicken was meal in itself

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