The accidental development of an obscure wine grape variety may have spawned a new specialist sector for Western Australia’s producers.
Several South West winemakers, including major player Howard Park, started bottling the US-bred carnelian after discovering they had mistakenly planted the variety rather than the better-known sangiovese they thought they had purchased.
Rural businessman Robert Moltoni is one who has decided to make the most of the error and offer carnelian to the public in his Windshaker Ridge range.
Mr Moltoni said he tasted what he thought was a “brilliant wine” on a trip to Manjimup in 1996 and, told it was sangiovese, he secured cuttings.
In 1998 he planted 15 hectares at his property in Gingin alongside his olive grove.
However, at the urging of neighbour Malcolm McCusker, who is also producing under his Red Drop label, Mr Moltoni tested the vines before actively marketing wine produced from them. DNA tests confirmed the variety as carnelian.
Undeterred, Mr Moltoni decided to go ahead with what he considers is a “breakthrough variety”.
Carnelian was developed by Dr Harold Olmo, a Professor of Viticulture Emeritus at UC Davis in the US, who first worked on the variety in the early 1950s.
Carnelian was the result of a cross between cabernet sauvignon, grenache and carignan. In the late 1990s the variety was quietly developed in Western Australian vineyards. The pioneers of the vine have all sourced the variety from Manjimup, but they have approached it differently.
Peos Estate managing director Vic Peos was also seeking sangiovese, which he thought would do well here as a variety away from the traditional French stock.
Mr Peos sourced his stock from Manjimup and persevered to see what it would produce after discovering it wasn’t sangiovese.
He has gone on to market it as a cleanskin, with his 2002 stock all sold out.
“People love it, and while the future is uncertain, one of the plans is to produce a carnelian rose,” Mr Peos said.
However, major wine producer Amberley Estate senior winemaker Paul Dennewyck said the accidental planting in 2003 was a significant error because Amberley wanted sangiovese.
“The variety presents a few challenges. It produces large bunches and requires high viticultural management,” he said.
At this point Amberley has not bottled the wine and has grafted some to chardonnay.
Mr Dunnewyck said he has a passion for alternate varieties because of their difference, but he concedes they are difficult to market.
Another major player to make the mistake was Howard Park whose vineyard manager, David Burch, said he was initially disappointed when tests revealed his ‘sangiovese’ to be carnelian.
Mr Burch said he took advice not to rip out the vines at Leston vinyeard in Margaret River and instead Howard Park released its 2003 vintage at cellar door just 12 months ago. It has been labelled Carnelian P76-40 (after Dr Olmo’s registered research name).
“The future is uncertain; it is a variety that is attractive to the public, as a unique experience, a wine that is only available at cellar door,” Mr Burch said.
“We’ve had a pretty positive response, people love it. It has proved to be a positive. It is a wine that is credible in its own right and its generous rich berry flavours are its most outstanding feature.”