I RECKON New Zealand sauvignon blanc might have shot itself in the foot.
I RECKON New Zealand sauvignon blanc might have shot itself in the foot.
Ten years ago, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was the darling of the wine world. Its delightfully approachable tropical fruit punch was as easy to get along with as a Kiwi backpacker - simple, affable and straightforward. Secondly, the wines were all crisp, fresh and zesty, owing to the cool climate that produces excellent acid profiles in the wines.
The combination of forward fruit and a dry finish, along with the pursuit of excellence that comes with successful boutique wine producers, set the brand of Marlborough savvy afire all around the world. Sadly, things have changed.
The wines used to be great and with their success came a raft of new players into the arena, big and small, all trying to jump on the bandwagon. Nothing wrong with that of course but these huge plantings and investments over a short period of time have resulted in two things: an oversupply of fruit; and the traditional price point of $15 to $25 being saturated with an ever-increasing number of brands.
Unfortunately the craftsmanship that carved out the niche for NZ savvy is being forgotten as producers strive for a broader market appeal. We are seeing more commercial style wines with much higher sugar levels and clumsy winemaking as some producers strive to bring the price down and woo a larger, less quality-conscious demographic.
Yep, it still says Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc on the label but often the stuff in the bottle is a very different beast. There are now fewer racy, tightly focused, punchy wines laced with zinging passionfruit. The wines often look more like generic, overly sweet cafe house wines and I don't believe they are worthy of the 30 per cent plus market share they now command.
Of course not all producers have gone down this route. The guys at Craggy Range, Wairau River and a few others are still producing exemplary wines, but they must be grimacing as the majority of their peers drag down the reputation of brand New Zealand sauv blanc.
So don't get excited when you see the two leading labels from New Zealand, duking it out at the $13 price point. And no, that two-litre cask of NZ savvy is not stunning value at $20; those prices are about right for the quality of the wine.
Have a look instead at a product that has waned in popularity, though not in quality, a product that has tenaciously stuck to its ideal of attention to detail, a product that has been consistently impressive and has been on our doorstep for decades - Margaret River semillon sauvignon blanc.
The pending '09 vintage dry whites are looking very good and this brand should retake centre stage in wine store fridges across Perth.
So next time, instead of reaching for Giesen or Oyster Bay, grab a bottle of Skuttlebutt, Wills Domain or Juniper Estate and celebrate a bit of local talent.
