One of the many idiosyncrasies of the Australian lexicon is the tendency to use rhetorical questions as statements.
With that in mind (and joining the list of ‘how good is ...?’), today I offer you another: how good is Australian wine?
I’m not talking just about the wines at the very top end, which consistently win awards at wine shows around the world. Instead I’m talking about the wines that sell in that sub-$50 category, where you’re looking at quality and value for money. And there is an abundance of both.
I recently conducted a major tasting to find my top 100 red wines from across Australia, and the results were remarkable. I’ve been doing it for about 20 years and I don’t think I’ve seen a better collection of wines.
Overall, I tasted more than 500 wines from all the major wine regions of the country. In all cases, from the value-for-money cheapies that sell for less than $10 in some cases through to the wines that are selling in the $35 to $50 bracket, the quality was exceptional.
Many of those wines selling for less than $50 could quite easily carry an $80 price tag.
When I conduct these tastings, I try to strike a balance between price and quality because I know people are looking for value; it just depends at what price point.
A strong focus is always in the category that sits below $20, where people know they can get a quality wine to bring to the dining table, or just to have while they’re sitting on the patio with a steak on a Saturday evening.
This week, I’ve highlighted three wines from the tasting covering most of the price points. They capture the quality and value for money that is so attractive to wine drinkers.
De Bortoli dominated the budget end of the offering. They produce an incredible range of wines, some of which are selling for as little as $7, but largely in that under-$15 category.
The De Bortoli DB Winemaker Selection cabernet sauvignon 2024 shared top billing with the DB shiraz as the best-value wines of the entire tasting.
It’s remarkable that you can get wines showing this much character at this price.
In the middle price point, I took the Howard Park Miamup cabernet sauvignon from 2023. I tasted this wine previously and was immediately captivated by the quality of this vintage. Howard Park makes an outstanding range of wines and this one is as good as I’ve tasted in this range. All for just $30.
Finally, right at the top end was the Cherubino Ovale Block 7 shiraz 2023. I have no hesitation in saying that if this wine had a price tag of $80 or $90 it would still be considered good value. It is the quintessential modern Australian shiraz from one of the great vineyards in the state, down at Frankland River.
From the value-for-money cheapies selling for less than $15 right through to the exceptional wines in the top price bracket, the quality of wine in this year’s top 100 red wine tasting was quite exceptional. You should get out there and check them out.
Cherubino Ovale Block 7 shiraz 2023 ($47)
A breathtaking example of the very best of Frankland River. It’s from Cherubino’s Riversdale property, which continues to pump out some of the finest Rhone varieties in WA. The striking feature here is the balance of the fruit and the oak. It was matured in one- and two-year-old oak for 12 months, so no new oak has been added. But it has the richness, structure, and opulence of that region to handle excellent cellaring over the next 10 years. Outstanding.
Score: 96/100
Cellar: 10 years
Howard Park Miamup cabernet sauvignon 2023 ($30)
A picture-perfect vintage has produced one of the best cabernets under this label yet. Bold statement of blackcurrant and lifted blackberry on the nose with a trace of bay leaf and dried herb character. Beautifully seductive and smoothly textured palate with the structure and definition that is cabernet, giving it purpose. A wine like this, selling for just $30, is crazy.
Score: 95/100
Cellar: 10 years
De Bortoli DB Winemaker Selection cabernet 2024 ($10.70)
This is quite a remarkable wine in this price category. It’s got true varietal expression of blackcurrant and plummy fruit with a nice long palate. Well balanced with the tannins and the oak sitting comfortably together. This was a mighty good year in Griffith, where much of the fruit is sourced from.
Score: 93/100
Cellar: six years
• Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
