THERE’S no shortage of famous names in the Margaret River wine scene: award winners, nostalgic favourites and international best sellers among them.
One that has strong brand recognition but sometimes sits quietly in the background is Devil’s Lair, the vineyard planted by Phil Sexton in 1981 and since acquired as part of Treasury Wine Estate.
A recent tasting of their 2023 cabernet sauvignon gave me a timely nudge that it was about time I wrote something about what these guys are doing.
I caught up with senior winemaker and viticultural manager Travis Clydesdale recently to discuss the latest wines.
Having joined Devil’s Lair three years ago, Mr Clydesdale speaks with clear respect for both the vineyard and the people behind it.
“The first thing that struck me was the commitment and passion that drove the team in crafting luxury chardonnay and cabernet,” he said.
“When you think of the quality of vineyards we’ve got to work with, particularly for chardonnay, the site is just second to none.”
Chardonnay is the heartbeat of Devil’s Lair and refinement rather than reinvention is the focus.
“We’re located in the southern part of Margaret River, in the Wallcliffe subregion,” Mr Clydesdale said.
“Predominantly the Gingin clone, which Margaret River is famous for, in our particular region we find it to be incredibly powerful and rich.
“Over the years, we’ve used different clonal material to tame the Gingin. On its own, it can be quite overpowering and a little difficult to shape.”
It was a style that had changed over the years.
“The early Margaret River chardonnays from Devil’s Lair were very big, very unctuous, with a lot of malo influence,” Mr Clydesdale said.
“We’ve moved away from that, as an industry, too, back toward a tighter, more linear structure.
“We’re focusing more on acidity and restrained oak, looking for more structural oak to support the fruit and respect the site.”
That balance between power and restraint was tested across the 2023 and 2024 vintages, which could hardly have been more different.
“The 2024 was one right out of the box for Margaret River; the earliest we’ve ever picked, mid-January, a full thirty days ahead of long-term norms,” Mr Clydesdale said.
“It was extremely dry, which led to low yields and accelerated ripening. We had to move very quickly, but our early vineyard work, leaving more leaf to protect the fruit, paid off.”
By contrast, the 2023 season was much more moderate and even.
“It was a really slow, steady ripening season that let us take our time,” Mr Clydesdale said.
“Typically, we pick our estate chardonnay over two weeks, and in 2023 it stretched to three. It was the opposite of the 2024.”
The estate’s pinnacle chardonnay, Ninth Chamber, is drawn entirely from the same vineyard as the estate wine.
“Historically it’s only been released in exceptional years, but we’ve realised we’re in the hot spot of Margaret River for chardonnay,” Mr Clydesdale said.
“It’s silly not to make it every year. It’s simply the best parcel from the estate each season; the greatest expression of chardonnay we can get.”
Cabernet sauvignon, meanwhile, comes from a different part of Margaret River altogether.
“We don’t grow cabernet here,” Mr Clydesdale said.
“We’re too far south and we simply can’t get it ripe. So, we work with growers in the northern reaches of Margaret River, near Wilyabrup and Yallingup, where we can achieve those dark-berry, red-fruit, bay-leaf flavour spectrums.”
The results have been striking. The 2022 cabernet sauvignon has become one of the most awarded wines in the country in recent years. The 2023 followed with equal promise.
In my opinion the 2023 is better. And it also has to be the best value premium cabernet on the market.
Devil’s Lair Margaret River cabernet sauvignon, 2023 ($50)
A quite stunning expression of the 2023 vintage. The elegance, purity, power and finesse are all on vivid display with this super cabernet. Blackcurrant dominant with black olive, a little bay leaf and graphite. And then a palate that positively dances through to a sustained, precise, and quite effortless finish. Terrific wine.
Score: 96/100
Cellar: 20 years
Devil’s Lair Margaret River chardonnay 2024 ($50)
Captures the style and essence of this vineyard. The wine is quite fine and almost delicate, but there is texture here and a richness that is held and focused with precision. A combination of light butterscotch and brioche with subtle stone fruit characters. There’s a squeeze of lemon and grapefruit, and a nice oak integration. The pure sea-spray character on the finish is most appealing.
Score: 95/100
Cellar: 10 years
Devil’s Lair 9th Chamber chardonnay 2023 ($100)
This is the pinnacle of Devil’s Lair chardonnay, and certainly one of the finest yet released under this label. Like all Devil’s Lair chardonnays, there’s a real finesse and elegance about it. Aromas of subtle brioche, lemon curd and a slightly savoury character on the palate. The power creeps up gradually and then drives through to a powerful, long finish. Love the slightly creamy, restrained texture, the savouriness and the intensity of the fruit. This is a classy expression of southern Margaret River chardonnay.
Score: 97/100
Cellar: 15 years
• Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
