WA’s south coast wonderland

The south coast of Western Australia is hard to beat for peace, tranquillity and a complete break from day-to-day stresses. And jewel in the crown is the magnificent coast between Denmark and Walpole.

Sure, it’s further to drive from Perth than Margaret River, but in every way it’s worth it.

Denmark is a delightfully quaint town bordering the Wilson Inlet. The atmos-phere is relaxed and slightly reminiscent of the hippy era, when free-thinking, creative individuals were not constrained by the mundane details of time and money.

Denmark is surrounded by beautiful forests, wild remote beaches, serene waterways, well-tended wineries, intriguing art and craft galleries and thriving hill farms.

Further west along the south coast is Walpole, famous for its proximity to the majestic Valley of the Giants and its Tree Top Walk. This area provides the perfect setting for a real wilderness experience, whether that consists of climbing a remote mountain, boating on the Walpole and Nornalup inlets or bush-walking along a lonely riverbank or secluded forest track.

You really can get lost in this region.

Where to stay

Chimes Spa Retreat has one of the best views in the state. It offers a host of extras which put it above the usual bed and breakfast, including a spa salon providing beauty and health treatments.

Guestrooms are spacious and tastefully decorated and include a two-person spa bath. Each is nestled against a corner window with sweeping views over forests and meadows and some have ocean views. Phone: 9848 2255.

Whispers, Secrets and Rumours is an unbelievably luxurious Spanish-style Cabana house nestled into the hillside. This whimsically named property with views far into the distance is located just outside the town of Denmark and is perfect for two couples travelling together. Phone: 9848 2000.

The King’s Den at Cape Howe Cottages is a truly secluded retreat. It is the perfect venue for nature lovers and those wanting complete isolation. Nestled amid tall karri trees deep in the bush, it is way off the beaten track. Here you can curl up in the king-sized bed, relax in the spa or try the private outdoor shower under the canopy of trees. Phone: 9845 1295.

Further along the coast towards Walpole is Tree-elle Retreat. Elegant furnishings and clever use of local pottery and art reflect the area’s reputation as an artisan’s mecca.

The five separate houses have tranquil views over extensive gardens and meadows to the Irwin Inlet. The cottages’ isolation and the on-site massage spa studio make this an exceptional haven. Phone: 9840 8471.

For something completely different, why not enjoy a holiday on a houseboat? Houseboat Holidays are based in Walpole, where their well-equipped houseboats ply the tranquil waters of the Walpole and Nornalup inlets.

Nature lovers will take pleasure in the abundant birdlife and the unspoilt scenery of karri, jarrah and tingle forests, which line the water’s edge. Phone: 9840 1310.

Where to eat

Emily’s Country Kitchen

Tennessee Road South between Denmark and Albany.

Phone:  9845 1133.

Lunches, morning and afternoon teas in a pretty farmhouse setting. Closed over winter. Best to call beforehand to check on opening hours.

Matilda’s Estate

Hamilton Rd, Denmark 

Phone:  9848 1951.  

Scrumptious lunches, coffees and wine tasting from 10am to 5pm daily. Dinners available on Friday and Saturday nights.

Nornalup Tea House

South Coast Highway, Nornalup

Phone: 9840 1422.  

With a pretty cottage garden outlook, the cuisine makes use of local produce and the café is fully licensed. Open from Wednesday to Monday from 9am for breakfast, lunch and dinner (closed Tuesday).

The Observatory Restaurant

Shadforth Rd, Denmark 

Phone:  9848 2600.

Imaginative cuisine and superb views. Open daily from 10am for coffee and cake. Lunches served from noon to 2pm and dinner from 6pm till late.

Thurlby Herb Farm Garden Café

Lot 3 Gardiner Rd, Walpole 

Phone:  9840 1249.

Deep in the forest country, the café serves delicious lunches, cakes and coffees. Open between 9am and 4.30pm every day of the week.

Scenic tours

WOW Wilderness Cruises

Walpole

Phone: 9840 1036.  

Takes you on a scenic voyage through the inlets and rivers of the Walpole-Nornalup National Park. Departs from Walpole at 10am every morning. 

Denmark Discovery Tours

Phone: 9848 2604.

Tours of Denmark and surrounds conducted by keen naturalists with extensive 4WD experience.

Tree Top Canoe Hire

Phone: 9840 1107.

From Nornalup, canoe on the pristine Frankland River where the surroundings are remote and natural.

Beaches

Lights Beach 

Lights Beach Rd, Denmark 

This beach has beautiful rugged views and great beach walking especially at sunset, though swimming is not        permitted.

Lowlands Beach 

Off Lower Denmark Road, take Tennessee South Road in the Torbay area where a freshwater creek flows across pure white sand.

Ocean Beach 

Ocean Beach Rd, Denmark

A huge expanse of white sandy beach extends along the wide bay at the mouth of the Wilson Inlet.

Shelley Beach

Shelley Beach Rd, off Hortin Rd from the Lower Denmark Rd, Torbay

Beautiful beach where a dramatic headland plunges to the sea beside crystal clear water and squeaky white sand.

William Bay

William Bay Rd, off South Coast Highway, 14km west of Denmark 

Try swimming and snorkelling at lovely Greens Pool and explore Elephant Rocks and Madfish Bay.

Tree top walks

Valley of the Giants and the Tree Top Walk

Valley of the Giants Rd (14km east of Wal-pole), Walpole-Nornalup National Park

This suspended walkway is high up in the canopy of magnificent tingle trees. At ground level, starting near the main entrance is the Ancient Empire Trail. Open daily between 9am and 4.15pm.

Wine tasting

Howard Park and Madfish Wines

Scotsdale Rd, Denmark 

Phone:  9848 2345.

Open between 10am and 4pm daily.

Karriview Wines

Cnr Scotsdale & Roberts Rds, Denmark 

Phone: 9840 9381.

Open Thursday to Sunday from 11am to 4pm for wine tasting. Wood fired pizzas and vineyard platters are also available.

Rickety Gate Wines

Scotsdale Road, Denmark

Phone: 9840 9503.

 Open Friday to Monday and all holidays from 11am to 4 pm.

Somerset Hill Wines

McLeod Rd, Denmark 

Phone: 9840 9388.

Open daily between 11am and 4pm.

West Cape Howe Wines

South Coast Highway, Denmark 

Phone: 9848 2959.  

Open daily 10am to 5pm.